CaptainDMA 75T DMA board

How CaptainDMA 75T works

The board gets direct access to the gaming PC's memory over PCIe — that's the DMA, Direct Memory Access. It reads game memory while bypassing the operating system and sends the data down a cable to a second machine. That machine builds the ESP, draws the radar and, when aim is on, works out the aim point.

The key difference from an ordinary cheat: nothing extra runs on the gaming computer. No process, no injection into the game, no driver to find. To Windows, CaptainDMA 75T looks like a regular expansion card, and what it's busy with isn't visible from the system. So the memory-based detection an anti-cheat leans on first simply has nothing to catch.

What you need besides the board

CaptainDMA 75T is the core of the setup, but the board alone isn't enough. A working build also needs:

A second computer — it runs the cheat and draws the overlay. It doesn't have to be a gaming rig: an old laptop or a mini-PC works, and some builds start at 4 GB of RAM and two cores.

Firmware for your anti-cheat — BattlEye is already on the board; EAC, ACE and VGK need a swap. Each cheat's page says which firmware it wants.

A KmBox or MAKCU — only if you want aim: the device feeds mouse movement into the gaming PC as a normal USB mouse. ESP, radar and loot filters don't need it.

A fuser or a second monitor — to see the overlay. A fuser lays the second machine's image straight onto the gaming screen; without one you watch the overlay on a separate monitor.

Which games and anti-cheats it fits

CaptainDMA 75T isn't tied to one game — it's a universal capture board, and compatibility is decided by the firmware and the cheat itself. Out of the box it's flashed for BattlEye, which is enough for BattlEye titles with no firmware swap.

For EAC, ACE and Vanguard (VGK) you fit an emulated firmware — it spoofs the board's identifiers so the system sees ordinary hardware. In CS2 and Deadlock on VAC no firmware is needed; cheats there run without it. The list of compatible DMA cheats and the firmware each game needs is shown in the "Works with this" block and on each build's page.

How it differs from cheap boards

Current DMA boards read memory at similar speeds — the difference is stability and support. CaptainDMA 75T is one of the most battle-tested cards on the market: nearly every DMA cheat developer keeps it in their compatibility list, so the "the board is in but the cheat can't see it" problem is rare with it.

Second: firmware is included and updated for new anti-cheat versions. Cheap no-name boards often ship without current firmware and stop passing checks right after the next EAC or BattlEye update. Here the firmware is kept up to date, and you can confirm the status for a specific game with support before you buy.

Install and first run

The board goes into a free PCIe slot of the gaming PC, and the second machine connects to it by cable. After that: firmware for your anti-cheat, loading the cheat on the second machine and, if you want aim, hooking up a KmBox. The full order is in each build's guide.

No BIOS tweaks for the board itself are usually needed. If something doesn't come up the first time, we help with setup after purchase in Discord — that's part of the support, not a paid extra.

Delivery, warranty and support

Hardware often goes on order, so stock, the shipping method and timing, warranty terms and any setup questions are all handled in the DM — on Discord. Message before you pay: we confirm stock and price and answer shipping and warranty for your specific case.

After the purchase, the same place is where we help you fit the board and firmware and get the chain running — that's part of the support.